Demystifying 'Grand Cru'

Part 2: Bordeaux (again)

In the last part of this series, I broke down how the Grand Cru classification in the Médoc region of Bordeaux came about. However, on the other side of the Dordogne, things work quite differently. After all, why would two subregions in the same 50km radius agree on the same wine laws...?!

So we’re in Saint-Émilion - the home of Merlot dominant blends on diverse soils of cool clay, limestone and gravel. Unlike the Left Bank (Médoc) 1855 classification, which was based largely on reputation and market value of the châteaux, which makes sense seeing as those who sold the wines were the ones judging them, the Saint-Émilion classification takes a much more holistic approach. Coming into effect exactly 100 years later, it takes into account blind tasting, terroir, sustainability efforts and overall reputation. Crucially, it’s revised every 10 years, meaning no château can rest on past laurels - there’s always an opportunity for new names to rise and others to fall.

But here’s where it gets confusing. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC is an appellation - not a classification - that covers the same large region as Saint-Émilion AOC. Both of these appellations are for red wines only but Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC has tighter restrictions on maximum yields, making the wines more concentrated and therefore ageworthy. It also requires wines to be matured for longer (20 months versus 6 months) than their non-Grand Cru counterparts. Any producer in the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC appellation boundaries making their wines in accordance to these rules can label their wines Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC. It’s still a mark of quality for these reasons but it does not mean that their estate is ranked as part of the Grand Cru Classé classification - that’s a separate quality hierarchy system altogether!

So what should you look out for on a label, if you’re after the very best?

1. Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé 

‘Entry level’ of the classification. Châteaux in this level demonstrate consistently high quality wines across a number of vintages that have been approved through rigorous tastings. Vineyard sites are subject to terroir assessments and the winery facilities and cellar management are evaluated. 

2. Premier Grand Cru Classé B

In this level of classification, châteaux deliver even more consistently higher quality wines. They also have a stronger reputation and superior terroir, with wines having higher concentration, complexity and ageing potential.

3. Premier Grand Cru Classé A

The highest quality châteaux in Saint-Émilion sit in this level. Their terroir and wines are outstanding and show significant ageing potential, leading them to command very high prices and an elite following. This is the pinnacle of quality in the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC appellation.

Confused yet? Let’s look at some examples.

Example 1 - Clos Systey

Clos Systey's two labels - 'De Systey' (left) follows Saint-Émilion AOC appellation laws whereas 'Château Clos Systey' (right) follows Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC appellation laws.

Clos Systey is a wonderful little two hectare, family-run château in Saint-Émilion, that abides by Grand Cru AOC appellation laws to produce their most prestigious wines under their first label ‘Château Clos Systey’. As seen in the photo, this bottle from 2015 bears the words ‘Saint-Émilion Grand Cru’ - if it’s not apparent from the vintage, you can tell this was a complex and ageworthy wine. However, the bottle on the left, under their second label ‘de Systey’, simply reads ‘Saint-Émilion’. Even though the grapes are from the same vineyard, this wine does not meet the minimum yield or maturation requirements and is instead designed to be fruit forward for early drinking. Therefore, they have declassified it to ‘Saint-Émilion AOC’.

Example 2 - Rol Valentin

Château Rol Valentin is classified as a Grand Cru Classé producer for their principal wine

Château Rol Valentin does not label their secondary wine 'Les Valentines' as Grand Cru Classé

Château Rol Valentin, on the other hand, has been classified as part of the Saint-Émilion classification. This can be seen from the words ‘Grand Cru Classé’ on the bottle. Remember that in this instance, the words ‘Saint-Émilion Grand Cru’ on the bottle are almost redundant, seeing as only wines that are in the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru appellation and following the associated rules can apply for Grand Cru Classé classification. Rol Valentin will need to maintain their standards in order to keep their ranking as one of the 85 wine estates in the Grand Cru Classé system. They also choose to release wines under a secondary label ‘Les Valentines’, which doesn’t bear the words Grand Cru Classé on the label. This is because the Grand Cru Classé status is designed to represent the producer’s flagship wine - they are not required, and often not permitted, to apply the term to every cuveé they make. As with Clos Systey’s ‘de Systey’ label, Rol Valentin’s ‘Les Valentines’ label is designed to be more approachable, less expensive and earlier drinking and the grapes may not have met the strict selection requirements for the grand vin.

If you’re still feeling overwhelmed - just remember that Saint-Émilion Grand Cru AOC is an area on the Right Bank of Bordeaux with fixed production rules. Grand Cru Classé or Premier Grand Cru Classé on the label is an important, yet easy to miss, difference that denotes the quality ranking of the estate itself.